Friday, July 27, 2012

Some Clarity on Crystal Deodorants, Part I


It is the hottest year on record in the U.S.1 and I live in Phoenix, Arizona, so deodorant seemed like a good choice for my first blog entry on product sustainability.

I am particularly interested in crystal deodorant, or deodorant stones as they are called. I have noticed that they have become a more prominent feature on the shelves of the health food stores lately. They can now even be purchased at drug stores and grocery stores too. Their packages are covered in words like “natural”, “organic”, and “no aluminum chlorohydrate”.

Figure 1. The deodorant shelves at my local health food store. I drew red boxes around the crystal deodorants. Not too long ago, there were only a few crystal deodorant products on the shelf.
 
I have to admit that some of the benefits of crystal deodorants have won me over – I have been using them for years now. They are effective, do not leave any residue, can be used on other parts of the body, last a really long time, and can be sold with less packaging than regular deodorants. In this series of blog posts I hope to shed some light on the true nature of this product, assess them from a standpoint of health and sustainability, and assess the manufacturer’s claims mentioned above.

So, what are they and how do they work? Basically, what you are applying to the skin is potassium alum (aluminum potassium sulfate dodecahydrate) or ammonium alum (ammonium aluminum sulfate). You can find it in two main forms:  as a stone-shaped object with or without application packaging, or in liquid form with additional ingredients for scent and/or application. The stone forms must be wetted before applying. Potassium and ammonium alum inhibit the growth of odor-causing bacteria, so rather than masking odors, these compounds actually prevent them.  Crystal deodorants do not have antiperspirant properties and solid-forms are unscented.2 On a side note, I wonder if odor causing bacteria could evolve a resistance to these types of deodorants?

The impression that one general gets from the often vague company descriptions is that these stones are just plucked right out of the ground and then packaged and sold to you. Although potassium alum does exist in its pure form, such mineral deposits are relatively rare. This means that the alum salts are most likely extracted from ore using a chemical process, just like metals are.3, 4 The extracted potassium or ammonium alum is then molded into shapes or added to liquid for use. 

Whether mined in its pure form or extracted from ore, does the term “natural” or “organic” apply to these products? In the sense that the term “natural” is usually used, the pure mineral deodorant stones could maybe get away with this term, but the ore extracted ones probably should not, because the sense of the term “natural” usually considers ore processing as “synthetic”.  “Organic” definitely does not apply, because alum salts are not plant-based, which also means they cannot obtain organic certification. One exception to this is for liquid crystal deodorants – some of the non-alum ingredients can be certified organic. Alum salts also do not fall under the chemical definition of “organic”, because they contain no carbon atoms.

Figure 2. Example of crystal deodorant types and packaging.
 
Above are some examples of different forms and packaging for crystal deodorants. The pink paper was added to hide the brand names.  From left to right, they can be described as follows:  liquid crystal deodorant (water, potassium alum, and other ingredients), solid crystal deodorant with plastic applicator base (potassium alum), solid crystal deodorant with plastic tray (mineral salts and ammonium alum), and another solid crystal deodorant with plastic tray (potassium alum). The deodorant on the far right is translucent. This indicates it was removed from a pure mineral deposit and shaped.5 The other products are most likely were obtained by extracting the alum salts from ore and then molding the extracted salts into shapes (middle two products) or dissolving them in liquid (far left product).


In Part II, I will be talking about aluminum and the “no aluminum chlorohydrate” labeling on some crystal deodorants.

In Part III, I will give my sustainability assessment on crystal deodorants.


P.S. Just for fun, some amazing pictures of pure potassium alum deposits can be found at the following web address:  http://www.verdan.com/us/verdan-crystal-deodorant-about-us/crystal-deodorant-image-gallery.html


References
(1) Castillo, M. January to June 2012 warmest first half of any year on record. CBS News, July 9, 2012. http://www.cbsnews.com/8301-201_162-57468991/january-to-june-2012-warmest-first-half-of-any-year-on-record/ (accessed July 27, 2012).

 (2) Crystal Body Deodorant. FAQ. http://thecrystal.com/faq.cfm (accessed July 27, 2012).

(3) Bubble & Bee Organic. Aluminum in crystal deodorant stones. January 21, 2010. http://chemicaloftheday.squarespace.com/most-controversial/2010/1/21/aluminum-in-crystal-deodorant-stones.html (accessed July 27, 2012).

(4) Bubble & Bee Organic. Exposing more truths about alums. March 8, 2010. http://chemicaloftheday.squarespace.com/most-controversial/2010/3/8/exposing-more-truths-about-alum.html (accessed July 27, 2012).

(5) Natural Cosmetics News. What everyone ought to know about crystal deodorant stones. http://www.naturalcosmeticnews.com/new-ingredients/what-everyone-ought-to-know-about-crystal-deodorant-stones/ (accessed July 27, 2012).

Friday, July 6, 2012

The Waste Hierarchy

In addition to life cycle thinking, I will be using the waste hierarchy as a rule of thumb for my product analyses in this blog.


This means that when evaluating the sustainability of a product the following attributes will be ranked, with the most sustainable being 1 and least being 6:

1. Elimination of the need of a product in the first place
2. De-materialization - smaller product/packaging and/or longer lifespan of product/packaging
3. Reusable product instead of a disposable product
4. Recyclable or biodegradable product instead of a non-recyclable/non-biodegradable product
5. A product that can be incinerated with energy recovery or some other process for energy recovery
6. Product can only be landfilled

The more attributes a product has at the top of the list, the more sustainable it is thought to be. So the best case scenario would be a product that has a reduced size, is reusable, has a long life span, and can be recycled at end-of-life. Worst case scenario would be a product that is only used once and is then landfilled.

Please note that this is not a perfect rule of thumb. For example, it is possible that a disposable yet biodegradable product/packaging could be more sustainable than a reusable product because the manufacturing impact of the reusable product/package is large and the re-use pattern of the product/packaging is not enough to offset this large manufacturing impact.